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Tuesday 31 May 2016

Schloss Drachensburg in Konigswinter

Ludendorff Bridge - west side

Fortunately we could use the upper path

BAD BREISIG - Bonn - RODENKIRCHEN 41.50 miles

BAD BREISIG - Bonn - RODENKIRCHEN 41.50 miles

We left a very nice Rhine village. Had a comfortable stay and off we went at 9 alongside the river. Soon we couldn't get any further, the river had overflowed (see picture), so we made a slight detour. Little did we know at that time that worse was to come.....and not once...but 6 times!. Also it was quite deep. Lionel just went through the first one not realising how deep it actually was. Wet up to our calves! I was quite angry, but then I saw other cyclists do the same and they were laughing about it, that I shrugged my shoulders and gave up being cross. For the following flooded areas we made sometimes large detours and on one occasion we lost the plot so to speak. A kind cyclist showed us the way as he was heading for the same destination. Relief..
But what of the day itself. So much to see again. At Remagen we passed the remains of Ludendorff Bridge. It was the only Rhine Bridge captured intact by advancing Allied forces in March 1945. German soldiers attempted to demolish it, but failed, were court-martialled and shot. 10 days later it collapsed suddenly and 28 American army engineers were killed. The bridge towers remain on both banks. Both the American and German flag can be seen on the West Bank.
As we were cycling the west side of the river we could see sitting above Konigswinter on the other side, Drachenfels(Dragon's Rock), the westernmost peak of the Siebengebirge range of volcanic hills. Also that side of the river is Rheinhotel Dreesen. It was here that Hitler met British Prime Minister Neville Chamberlain in sept 1938, prior to signing the Munich Agreement - which promised 'peace in our time'. It was not to be..
It has again been a great day.
Hope the flooding will recede for tomorrow...


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Monday 30 May 2016

'AFFECTION' by Lucien Wercollier in Koblenz

The Fortress of Ehrenbreitstein opposite Koblenz

BOPPARD - Koblenz - BAD BREISIG 40 miles

BOPPARD - Koblenz - BAD BREISIG 40 miles

A dampish start at 9 while continuing on the cycle path next to the Rhine. We saw The city of Koblenz - founded by the Romans -ahead and beckoning us to come over and through. We had looked forward to this and we really enjoyed all we saw. We just poodled along on the bike; there was so much to see and at the slow pace we were going - on very good cycle paths - we were able to take it all in. The route was next to the Rhine and at a certain point we arrived at Deutches Eck ( German Corner), the point where the Mosel and Rhine rivers meet right in the middle of Koblenz. The route then took us via the old town over the river Mosel and back to the next stage alongside the Rhine. We stopped of course for a coffee on the Riverside gardens from where we could see the fortress of Ehrenbreitstein opposite Koblenz on the other site of the river.(see picture). The part of Koblenz we cycled through must be the best part of the city. Buildings and houses are very impressive and at one point we passed a bronze statue, called 'Affection'. At first it looked like a Henry Moore, but on closer investigation it was by a local sculptor, Lucien Wercollier, and was a commission for the year 2000. It is a beautiful work and you want to touch it. But ...of course you don't.
We stopped at Bad BREISIG and as soon we were in our room the heavens opened. That was good timing for stopping. Had a walk later and are back now writing my story.


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Sunday 29 May 2016

Goodbye Rudisheim..

Hello Bingen...

Pre-drinks Sunday Lunch

Die LORELEY

ELTVILLE - Rudisheim - BOPPARD 39 miles

ELTVILLE - Rudisheim - BOPPARD 39 miles

Much rain during the night but when we left at 9 it was dry but damp. Straight away alongside the Rhine - again a nature reserve most of the time - and this cycle path goes all the way to Koblenz. We stopped in Boppard just a few miles before as there was a place to stay just when we wanted it. The cycling appears to get better each day and the scenery has been so beautiful. Taken many pictures and one of the main ones is of course the Loreley. Unesco Heritage Site of course. The LORELEY is actually a big rock in a bend in the Rhine Gorge. The legend of Loreley is of a fair maiden who, having been spurned by a fisherman boyfriend, swore vengeance upon all river farers. She sat atop the cliff singing alluring songs to lure them towards the rocks and their doom. Nowadays, although the river has been dredged, these are still dangerous waters and larger boats take on a pilot to navigate past the Loreley. When looking at the water as we cycle along, its fast and busy with river cruisers, ferries, working vessels and you wouldn't stand much of a chance in there if you had a mishap.
It looks about the halfway mark at present. That's good going I think.


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Saturday 28 May 2016

A very happy man...

One of the ferries on the Rhine

The church in Oppenheim

ALSHEIM - Nierstein - ELTVILLE 34 miles

ALSHEIM - Nierstein - ELTVILLE 34 miles

The intention was to travel to Rudesheim. There was a big event going on and no accommodation to be found, so we settled for something nearer and made nice long stops. We started straight away through the wine fields, at times quite hilly with fantastic views ahead. Beautiful church in Oppenheim and a fellow guest at our B&B was going there for a wedding. (See picture). Much cycling alongside the Rhine today. It was warm but going through wooded areas was cooling. Following the original Rhine cycling route we travelled over the Conrad Adenauer bridge to the other side of the Rhine. This area was a hub of activity. Families were out cycling, walking and eating/drinking in the rhineside restaurants and cafes. Nice atmosphere and the sun was shining till late afternoon. Looks we are in for a storm.
But how do we feel? Quite fit really. After 7 days of cycling we feel that our bodies have synchronised with our daily routines. That took a few days to achieve. We sleep early and get up at 7. Have a not too big a breakfast but take a roll with us for later. We drink a lot of water and usually have a beer with our midday meal. It's been a good day.



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Friday 27 May 2016

The statue of Martin Luther outside the Dom

The Cathedral at worms

OTTERSTADT - Worms - ALSHEIM 44.50 miles

OTTERSTADT - Worms - ALSHEIM 44.50 miles

During the night heavy rain, but in the morning dry as we left at 9 o'clock. We contemplated going over the ferry at Altrip - travelling via Manheim - but when we saw the traffic building up we changed our mind and turned round choosing Ludwigshafen instead. That was a good decision as we had a marvellous day of cycling through Maudacher Bruchwald, which is a nature reserve and all the time cycling on the Rhine-deich (dike). We saw storks, geese, heard woodpeckers, toads, cuckoos and together with the wonderful scents it was awesome. Yes,we had to go through Ludwigshafen but the signs were excellent. Again we had something else to look forward to..The city of Worms. Founded in Roman times, Worms claims to be Germany's oldest city. Worms masterpiece is of course the cathedral or Dom which we visited in turns. It is beautiful and a picture is above. This cathedral is of course also an UNESCO site.
After Worms we headed for Alsheim cycling on the Rheinterrassen-Radweg. The place we are staying in Alsheim is a winery, and we saw many vineyards on this stretch. Very nice.


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Just to show we are really cycling the Rhine Route

Speyer Cathedral

A full size Lufthansa

NEUBURG am RHINE - Speyer - OTTERSTADT 45miles

NEUBURG am RHINE - Speyer - OTTERSTADT 45 miles

Left at 8.45 this morning. We had decided on going through Karlsruhe but couldn't as the ferry needed for that to cross the Rhine wasn't working. Water too high ; that decision was therefore made for us to take the western route. No disappointment as we went right through a nature reserve and it was beautiful. Lots of bird life again, saw a stork in the field; it's quite marshy, he was looking for a nice fat toad of course. We stopped many times as the temperature was high and we needed to drink regularly. We had been looking forward to 2 things in particular. First of all to see a full size Lufthansa situated on a rooftop of the Technikmuseum in Speyer and it was an awesome sight.(see above). Secondly, the Speyer Cathedral. It was magnificent. We went inside in turn as we didn't want to leave the bike alone for a second. Once inside I saw a Nun at tried to make a conversation with her. We understood each other remarkably well and she gave a blessing for our journey. Now, many people may not know this, but the term 'Protestant' derives from 'Protestation of Speyer'. A letter of protest was presented by German evangelicals to the imperial court in 1529, which sealed the split. Speyer became an important imperial city within the Holy Roman Empire as the location of the Imperial Chamber of Justice and burial place of eight Emperors. The other important information about the Cathedral is that it has Unesco status. It has been a very good day and we shall go out for a cool beer now.


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Wednesday 25 May 2016

Reed collectors' punts on the river Sauer

The 2000-year-old fossilised log

LA WANTZENAU - Drusenheim - NEUBURG AM RHINE 40 mil

LA WANTZENAU - Drusenheim - NEUBURG AM RHINE 40 miles

We left a very nice hotel. The sun was shining and had many stops for coffee, lunch and lastly tea at a place on the Rhine called Au Bord du Rhine at Lauterbourg which is the easternmost town in mainland France yet surrounded on three sides by German territory. As we watched this very fast flowing river we were amazed at the very long ships going past. You need transport to go from one end to the other! They carried anything from gravel, containers etc.
When we cycled through Offendorf we stopped at a structure on the side of the road. It was a 2000-year-old fossilised log found in a gravel pit in this village of Offendorf. (See above). We had passed these gravel pits and they were still working hard to extract more gravel. Heaps and heaps of pea-shingle to much larger gravel, all neatly sorted.
When cycling through Munchhausen over the River Sauer we noticed these Reed collectors' punts. (See above). These traditional punts were once used for fishing but now mainly for harvesting reeds. The strange thing is that you would expect to see these reeds also being used for the roofs of houses there. But not so. Perhaps the quality isn't good enough. Nothing perhaps like the reeds harvested in Norfolk, which is of a very high quality.
The route gives us a choice tomorrow. Stay on the west side of the Rhine or go via the east through Karlsruhe. It's tricky going through a large city again. We shall sleep on it.


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Tuesday 24 May 2016

Cycling for miles and miles alongside the canal

Mother Swan, while father Swan was making warning noises meant for us. 'Keep Out'!

Many of these huge snails are on the cycle path. Will make a lovely escargots dish with garlic butter, parsley and French bread. Hmmm.

SUNDHOUSE - Strasbourg - LA WANTZENAY 40 miles

SUNDHOUSE - Strasbourg - LA WANTZENAY 40 miles

The owners of the Gite promised us 'no rain'.....but we did. Not quite as much as yesterday. It was a real shame. I had so much looked forward to go to the European Centre and visit the European Parliament to take a picture. This is such an iconic building; it is breathtaking. Also no chance for cyclists in Strasbourg though! It's a nightmare to find your way round at the same time watching where you are going and we will not take chances on our tandem. We did have some help from a very kind Frenchman. He saw me looking at the signs and I couldn't make it out. He kept talking to us in very fast French, which made it even harder. He saw our despair and motioned us to follow him -totally the opposite way we thought was the one. That was a very nice man!
We did have wonderful cycling before and after Strasbourg. All the time on a cycle path, through wooded areas, alongside the canal du Rhone au Rhin. At times you think you are cycling through an Apothecary/chemist with all the different smells. Wonderful!



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BANTZENHEIM - Neuf-BrIsach - SUNDHOUSE 38 miles

BANTZENHEIM - Neuf-BrIsach - SUNDHOUSE 38 miles

Woke up this morning and it rained -a lot of it, all day long. However, we were well wrapped up in waterproofs, but in the end they did leak. In spite of this we had a wonderful ride through countryside, woods and alongside the Canal du Rhone au Rhine. Lots of wonderful smells, birdsong and the call of the cuckoo. We stopped for lunch in Biesheim where we had -as a consolation for bad weather- a culinary treat. On the menu was Cordon Bleu -one of our favourites- with a creamy white wine sauce and tiny mushrooms. It was as good as Lionel made it in the past, so that tells you a story.
We do see other Rhine Route cyclists, but usually the other way round :))much harder work! We chatted with a couple from Australia who sold all their belongings and are cycling for 3 years, they included this Rhine route. They had so much luggage that I wonder how on earth will they get up those hills, especially in Switzerland.
We arrived at our B&B at 4 in the afternoon. The owners actually gave us one of their Gites. It is a super place but...no wifi, so this post will have to be posted tomorrow. Also no pictures today.


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Sunday 22 May 2016

Basel Cathedral

La Roche Tower

PRATTELN - Basel - BANTZENHEIM 35miles

PRATTELN - Basel - BANTZENHEIM 35miles

After staying in this fantastic apartment at B&B Tomsi we left at 9 o'clock. Lovely day again and no hills today. We headed for Basel and we knew it could be a bit of a nightmare working our way out of here. It was just as well a Sunday as the traffic would have been harder negotiating the route with the signs. We had to have our eyes focussed, at the same time looking at the beautiful buildings we saw. The picture above is of the headquarters of the 'La Roche Tower', the pharmaceutical business. The other picture is of the Basel Cathedral, which we passed later on.
We entered the Petite Camarque which is a nature reserve. This is situated alongside the Canal du Rhone au Rhine. Wonderful cycling and no traffic of course. Many families out on bikes, picnics, watching bird life from the hides. At Pont du Bouc is a memorial for those who fought a now almost forgotten battle, but after many years of lobbying a memorial was inaugurated in 2011. From here we followed a track through the forest Domaniale de la Hardt Nord. Lovely smells of wild garlic, birds were trying to out sing each other. Cuckoos we heard, many swans on the water, we also saw some very big rats!
We headed for BANTZENHEIM were we had reserved a room. Later on we will have something to eat and will sleep well, ready for another day.


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Saturday 21 May 2016

The longest covered bridge over the Rhine

KAISERSTUHL -Waldshut- Bad Sackingen - PRATTELN

KAISERSTUHL -Waldshut- Bad Sackingen - PRATTELN.
50 miles

After a good night rest and breakfast in the morning we went off on our first serious cycling day and it has been hard, but....the sun was shining! A lot hillier than we thought it would be so the pedals have been pushed hard. The route isn't always directly next to the Rhine, but when it is, it's very nice, it also went through forest and cooled us off. The river has a funny green colour at times. Must have to do with the industry alongside. We stop quite often, especially at beautiful locations and have lunch, tea or an ice cream. The town of Bad Sackingen is quite unique. It has the longest covered bridge over the Rhine and is quite a tourist attraction. We have been north and south of the river. South being Switzerland, north Germany. That's the way the route goes. What we find very attractive is the lack of untidiness, rubbish on the road etc. It's really clean looking, especially Switzerland. We hope to do less miles tomorrow and we will leave Switzerland behind us after Basel.


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Friday 20 May 2016

To all the WINKELAAR family in the world ...

ZURICH - KAISERSTUHL on the Rhein 30 miles

ZURICH - KAISERSTUHL on the Rhein 30 miles

After a wonderful 24 hours with my Swiss family we arrived at Hotel Kreuz, Kaiserstuhl in the afternoon. We have been made so very welcome by Patrick, Heidi und Armin. Thank you again!
Heidi took us back by train from Sirnach to Zurich in the morning. We collected the tandem, made it ready for transport, said our goodbyes and we were off. Getting out of Zurich wasn't difficult but we did go wrong on the north side. After correction we had some hill climbing to do but the last few miles were all down hill. It was warm and we had run out of water, but a very friendly lady at a farm we passed refilled our bottle.
Hopefully our Swiss family will come to visit us before too long. That would be really good.
The scenery has been very nice. Typical Swiss houses, lots of coloured flowers, very attractive.
We haven't actually seen the river yet - that will be first thing in the morning.


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Thursday 19 May 2016

St. Peter's Church, Zurich

SIRNACH

SIRNACH

After a long journey on the train, ferry and some more train journeys we have safely arrived in Sirnach. Patrick was there at the station platform in Zurich waiting for us. After a coffee he took us for a walk in the old part where there are very expensive and beautiful shops, mostly in cobbled narrow streets. Very chique!
Once in Sirnach he showed us his business and house and we are well impressed - he has become very successful in his business.
Tonight we will have a meal together and shall take a picture and put it on Facebook.
While walking, Patrick pointed out a clock on the tower of St. Peter's church and this clock is supposed to be larger than Big Ben! As I saw it, I believe it is but if anyone proves me wrong do tell me.


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Thursday 5 May 2016

DEPARTURE DATE: May 17th

On Tuesday 17th we shall be travelling by train from Reedham to Harwich; the night ferry to the Hoek of Holland from where we will again travel by train to Amsterdam. Then in the evening we travel with the City Night Line sleeper, arriving at Zurich Haupt Bahn at 8 in the morning.
The original plan was to take another train to Andermatt -the source of the Rhine- and cycle from there back to the Hoek of Holland. We have changed our plans slightly and decided to leave this part out and instead will cycle from Zurich to the Rhine at Kaiserstuhl, which is just 24 miles north. Once at Kaiserstuhl we turn left on our way to Basel and so on. Not long now...